Homemade Spaetzle with Brown Butter and Caramelized Onions (German-American Holiday Side Dish)

Why you’ll love it

• Five simple ingredients: flour, eggs, milk, salt and a little nutmeg make the whole dough.
• Buttery and golden: brown butter and caramelized onions turn humble dumplings into a holiday-worthy side.
• Soaks up gravy: the tender little dumplings are made for roast meats and pan sauces.

Quick facts

Ingredients

For the spaetzle dough

• 2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp kosher salt
• 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
• 4 large eggs
• 1/2 cup (120 ml) whole milk, plus 1 to 2 tbsp more if needed

For cooking

• 4 quarts (3.8 liters) water
• 2 tbsp kosher salt

For the brown butter and onions

• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 5 tbsp (70 g) unsalted butter, divided
• 1 large yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced
• 1/4 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 1/4 tsp black pepper
• 2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley or chives
• 1/4 cup (25 g) finely grated Parmesan or Gruyère (optional, for serving)

Step-by-step method

1. Make the dough. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, salt and nutmeg. In another bowl, whisk the eggs and milk. Pour the egg mixture into the flour and stir with a wooden spoon, then beat vigorously 2 to 3 minutes, until the dough is smooth, thick, sticky and full of small bubbles. It should slowly drop from the spoon in ribbons, thicker than pancake batter. If it is too stiff, beat in 1 to 2 tablespoons more milk. Let it rest 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Caramelize the onions. While the dough rests, heat the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add the onion and 1/4 teaspoon salt and cook 18 to 20 minutes, stirring every few minutes, until soft and deep golden. Lower the heat if they brown too fast.

3. Boil the water. Bring the water and 2 tablespoons salt to a boil in a large pot, then lower it to a steady simmer. Set a bowl with 1 tablespoon of the butter next to the stove.

4. Shape the spaetzle. Working in 3 batches, hold a spaetzle maker or a colander with large (1/4-inch / 6 mm) holes over the pot and press about one-third of the dough through the holes with a spatula. Or spread the dough thinly on a wet cutting board and scrape thin strips into the water with a knife.

5. Cook. Simmer each batch 2 to 3 minutes, until the spaetzle float to the top, then cook 1 minute more. Lift them out with a spider strainer or slotted spoon, shake off the water and toss them in the bowl with the butter so they do not stick.

6. Brown the butter. Push the onions to one side of the skillet, raise the heat to medium and add the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter. Cook 2 to 3 minutes, swirling, until it foams and turns light brown with a nutty smell.

7. Pan-fry and serve. Add the spaetzle, toss with the onions and brown butter and cook 4 to 5 minutes, stirring only every minute or so, until hot with some crisp golden spots. Season with the pepper and more salt to taste, sprinkle with parsley and the cheese, if using, and serve hot.

How to know it is done

The spaetzle are cooked when they float to the surface and, after 1 more minute, are tender and slightly chewy all the way through with no raw, pasty center when you bite one. After pan-frying they should be hot, glossy with butter and have light golden, crisp spots in places. The onions should be soft and deep golden, and the butter should smell nutty and be light brown, not black.

Tips for the best result

• Beat the dough well; the bubbles mean the gluten has developed and the spaetzle will be tender but springy.
• Keep the water at a steady simmer, not a hard boil, so the dumplings hold their shape.
• Do not overcrowd the pot; cooking in batches keeps them from sticking together.
• Oil or butter the colander lightly so the dough passes through more easily.
• Let the spaetzle sit in the hot skillet without stirring for a minute at a time to get crisp edges.

Variations and substitutions

• Cheese spaetzle (Käsespätzle): layer the cooked spaetzle with 2 cups shredded Gruyère or Swiss cheese, top with the onions and bake at 375°F (190°C) for 10 minutes until melted.
• Herb spaetzle: add 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley and chives to the dough.
• With bacon: cook 4 slices of chopped bacon before the onions and use the fat instead of the olive oil.
• With mushrooms: sauté 8 oz (225 g) sliced mushrooms with the onions for an earthy side.
• Sparkling water: replace the milk with sparkling water for slightly lighter dumplings.
• Simply buttered: skip the onions and toss the spaetzle with brown butter and parsley.

Make ahead

Boil the spaetzle up to 2 days ahead: drain, toss with 1 tablespoon of butter or oil, cool on a baking sheet and refrigerate in an airtight container. Caramelize the onions up to 3 days ahead and refrigerate them separately. Just before dinner, brown the butter, add the onions and cold spaetzle and pan-fry 6 to 8 minutes, until hot and golden. This makes holiday timing very easy.

Storage and reheating

Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for up to 4 days. Reheat them in a skillet with a little butter over medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring now and then, until hot and lightly crisp; this works better than the microwave. To freeze, spread boiled (not fried) spaetzle on a baking sheet, freeze until firm, then transfer to a freezer bag for up to 3 months. Pan-fry them straight from frozen with a little extra time.