Old-Fashioned Concord Grape Pie (Naples, New York Style)

Why you’ll love it

• Unforgettable flavor: sweet-tart, jammy and bursting with real Concord grape taste.
• Flaky all-butter crust: a simple homemade pastry that bakes up golden and crisp.
• A regional classic: a true taste of upstate New York harvest season that few people have tried.

Quick facts

Ingredients

For the all-butter double crust

• 2 1/2 cups (315 g) all-purpose flour
• 1 tbsp (12 g) granulated sugar
• 1 tsp fine salt
• 1 cup (226 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) cubes
• 6 to 8 tbsp (90 to 120 ml) ice water

For the Concord grape filling

• 2 1/2 lb (1.1 kg) Concord grapes, stemmed (about 7 cups)
• 3/4 to 1 cup (150 to 200 g) granulated sugar, depending on the sweetness of the grapes
• 1/4 cup (32 g) cornstarch
• 1/8 tsp fine salt
• 1 tbsp (15 ml) fresh lemon juice
• 1 tbsp (14 g) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

For the topping

• 1 large egg beaten with 1 tbsp milk, for egg wash
• 1 tbsp coarse sugar (turbinado or sanding sugar)

Step-by-step method

1. Make the crust. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, sugar and salt. Cut in the cold butter with a pastry blender until most pieces are the size of peas. Sprinkle in the ice water 1 tablespoon at a time, tossing with a fork, until the dough holds together when you squeeze a handful. Divide it into 2 disks, one slightly larger than the other, wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour.

2. Slip the skins. Wash the grapes. Working over a medium saucepan, pinch each grape at the end opposite the stem so the green pulp pops out into the pan. Drop the skins into a large bowl.

3. Cook the pulp. Bring the pulp to a boil over medium heat, then simmer 5 minutes, stirring, until it breaks down and the seeds separate from the pulp.

4. Remove the seeds. Press the hot pulp through a food mill or a fine-mesh strainer into the bowl with the skins, scraping well; discard the seeds. Stir and let the mixture cool about 20 minutes. It will turn a deep purple as the skins soften.

5. Mix the filling. In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, cornstarch and salt so the cornstarch has no lumps. Stir it into the grape mixture with the lemon juice.

6. Line the pie plate. Place a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 425°F (220°C). On a floured surface, roll the larger disk into a 12-inch (30 cm) circle and fit it into a 9-inch (23 cm) deep-dish pie plate, letting the extra hang over the edge.

7. Fill and top. Pour in the filling and dot with the butter pieces. Roll the second disk into an 11-inch (28 cm) circle. Cut it into strips for a lattice, or lay it whole over the filling and cut 5 or 6 slits for steam. Trim the overhang to 1/2 inch (1.3 cm), fold the edges under and crimp.

8. Chill and glaze. Refrigerate the pie 15 minutes to firm the crust. Brush the top with the egg wash and sprinkle with the coarse sugar.

9. Bake. Set the pie on a rimmed baking sheet to catch drips. Bake 20 minutes at 425°F (220°C), then reduce the oven to 375°F (190°C) and bake 40 to 45 minutes more, until the crust is deep golden and the filling bubbles thickly in the center. If the edges brown too fast, cover them with foil or a pie shield.

10. Cool completely. Let the pie cool on a wire rack for at least 4 hours so the filling can set before slicing.

How to know it is done

The pie is done when the top and edges are a deep golden brown and you can see the purple filling bubbling slowly and thickly through the lattice or slits in the center of the pie, not only around the edges. Thin, fast bubbles mean the cornstarch is not fully cooked yet. If you use a glass pie plate, the bottom crust should look golden, not pale. After cooling, the filling should hold its shape when sliced, like a soft jam.

Tips for the best result

• Look for Concord grapes at farmers markets and grocery stores from September to October, and choose plump, dark grapes with a dusty bloom.
• Wear an apron: Concord grape juice stains clothes and wooden boards.
• Keep the butter and dough very cold for the flakiest crust.
• Bake until the center bubbles; an underbaked filling stays runny.
• Be patient and let the pie cool completely; warm grape pie will run all over the plate.

Variations and substitutions

• Crumb topping: instead of a top crust, mix 3/4 cup (95 g) flour, 1/2 cup (100 g) brown sugar and 6 tbsp (85 g) cold butter until crumbly and sprinkle it over the filling, as many Naples bakeries do.
• Store-bought crust: use 2 refrigerated 9-inch pie crusts to save time.
• Tapioca: use 1/4 cup (40 g) quick-cooking tapioca instead of the cornstarch and let the filling rest 15 minutes before baking.
• Other grapes: any slip-skin grape, such as Niagara or Steuben, works the same way.
• Less sweet: use 3/4 cup (150 g) sugar if your grapes are very ripe and sweet.

Make ahead

The pie dough can be refrigerated up to 2 days or frozen up to 3 months. Concord season is short, so do as Naples bakers do: prepare the skins and seedless pulp (steps 2 to 4), let them cool and freeze them together in a freezer bag for up to 6 months. Thaw in the refrigerator, then add the sugar mixture and bake. You can bake the whole pie a day before serving.

Storage and reheating

Cover the pie and keep it at room temperature for up to 1 day, or in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Serve it at room temperature or warm a slice at 350°F (175°C) for about 10 minutes. You can freeze the baked, completely cooled pie, well wrapped, for up to 3 months; thaw it in the refrigerator overnight.