Rhode Island Johnnycakes (Old-Fashioned Cornmeal Pancakes for Breakfast)

Why you’ll love it

• Crisp outside, creamy inside: scalding the cornmeal gives a tender center under a buttery golden crust.
• Six simple ingredients: cornmeal, water, milk, butter, sugar and salt, with no flour or eggs.
• A piece of history: a true New England breakfast that is naturally gluten-free.

Quick facts

Ingredients

For the johnnycake batter

• 1 cup (140 g) stone-ground white cornmeal (traditional Rhode Island white flint cornmeal if you can find it; yellow cornmeal also works)
• 1 tsp granulated sugar
• 1/2 tsp fine salt
• 1 1/4 cups (300 ml) boiling water
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup (80 to 120 ml) whole milk, as needed
• 1 tbsp (14 g) unsalted butter, melted

For cooking

• 3 tbsp (42 g) unsalted butter
• 1 tbsp neutral oil or bacon fat

To serve

• Softened butter
• Warm pure maple syrup or honey

Step-by-step method

1. Mix the dry ingredients. In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk the cornmeal, sugar and salt.

2. Scald the cornmeal. Bring the water to a full rolling boil. Pour it over the cornmeal all at once while stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until smooth and thick, with no dry spots. Cover and let stand 10 minutes so the cornmeal absorbs the water and softens.

3. Loosen the batter. Stir in the melted butter and 1/3 cup (80 ml) of the milk. Add more milk, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the batter is thick but drops slowly from a spoon, like soft mashed potatoes. It should hold its shape on the griddle, not run.

4. Heat the griddle. Heat a cast iron griddle or large heavy skillet over medium heat (375°F / 190°C on an electric griddle). Add 1 1/2 tbsp of the butter and half the oil and swirl to coat. Heat the oven to 200°F (95°C) to keep the first batch warm.

5. Shape the johnnycakes. Drop the batter by heaping 2-tablespoon scoops onto the hot griddle, about 2 inches (5 cm) apart, and gently spread each into a round about 3 inches (7.5 cm) wide and 1/2 inch (1 cm) thick with the back of a wet spoon. Cook 6 at a time.

6. Cook the first side. Cook without moving them 5 to 6 minutes, until the bottoms are deep golden brown and crisp and the edges look set. Do not flip too early or they will break.

7. Flip and finish. Turn them carefully with a thin metal spatula and cook 5 to 6 minutes more, until the second side is golden and crisp. Transfer to a sheet pan in the warm oven.

8. Cook the second batch and serve. Wipe the griddle if needed, add the remaining butter and oil and cook the rest of the batter. Serve hot with butter and warm maple syrup or honey.

How to know it is done

Johnnycakes are done when both sides have a deep golden brown, lacy crust that sounds crisp when tapped with the spatula, the edges are firm and the cakes hold together when lifted. The inside should be hot, soft and creamy but not wet or raw-tasting. If the outside browns before 5 minutes, lower the heat a little; these cook slowly so the thick center has time to cook through.

Tips for the best result

• Use water at a full rolling boil; hot tap water will not soften the cornmeal properly.
• Stone-ground cornmeal gives the best flavor and texture; finely ground cornmeal makes softer, smoother cakes.
• Keep the heat at medium and be patient; high heat burns the outside before the center cooks.
• Use a well-seasoned cast iron griddle and plenty of butter for the crispiest crust.
• If the batter thickens while it sits, stir in a spoonful of milk before cooking the second batch.

Variations and substitutions

• Thin, lacy Newport style: add about 1/2 cup (120 ml) more milk until the batter pours, and cook thin 4-inch (10 cm) cakes 2 to 3 minutes per side.
• Fluffier johnnycakes: stir 1 beaten egg and 1/2 tsp baking powder into the batter after it rests.
• Savory: skip the sugar, add 1/4 cup (25 g) grated cheddar and 2 sliced green onions, and serve with fried eggs.
• Bacon fat: cook them in bacon drippings instead of butter for a smoky, old-fashioned flavor.
• Dairy-free: use oat milk or water instead of milk and cook in oil or vegan butter.
• Fall spice: add 1/2 tsp cinnamon and 1 tbsp maple syrup to the batter.

Make ahead

Mix the cornmeal, sugar and salt the night before. You can also scald the cornmeal and stir in the butter, then cover and refrigerate the batter up to 24 hours; it will thicken, so stir in milk a spoonful at a time until it is the right consistency and let it sit at room temperature 15 minutes before cooking. Cooked johnnycakes reheat well (see below).

Storage and reheating

Store cooled johnnycakes in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat them in a buttered skillet over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes per side, or on a sheet pan in a 375°F (190°C) oven for 8 to 10 minutes, until hot and crisp again; the microwave makes them soft. To freeze, layer them with parchment in a freezer bag for up to 2 months and reheat from frozen in the oven for 12 to 15 minutes.