Hangtown Fry (Gold Rush Oyster and Bacon Frittata for a Holiday Brunch)

Why you’ll love it

• A piece of history: the famous Gold Rush breakfast you can make in your own kitchen.
• Crispy and fluffy: golden cracker-coated oysters and smoky bacon in soft, tender eggs.
• One skillet: everything cooks in the same pan, from the bacon to the finished frittata.

Quick facts

Ingredients

For the fried oysters

• 6 slices thick-cut bacon
• 12 medium fresh oysters, shucked (about 8 oz / 225 g shucked oyster meat, from a jar or the fish counter), drained
• 1/3 cup (40 g) all-purpose flour
• 1 large egg, beaten
• 2/3 cup (35 g) finely crushed saltine crackers (about 15 crackers)
• 1/8 tsp kosher salt
• 1 pinch cayenne pepper
• 1 tbsp (14 g) unsalted butter

For the eggs

• 8 large eggs
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) whole milk
• 1/4 tsp kosher salt
• 1/4 tsp black pepper
• 1 tbsp (14 g) unsalted butter

For serving

• 2 green onions, thinly sliced
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
• Lemon wedges, hot sauce and buttered sourdough toast

Step-by-step method

1. Cook the bacon. Place the bacon in a cold 10- to 12-inch (25 to 30 cm) ovenproof nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet and cook over medium heat 7 to 8 minutes, turning, until crisp. Transfer to paper towels, then crumble. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat. Place an oven rack about 6 inches (15 cm) below the broiler.

2. Bread the oysters. Pat the oysters very dry with paper towels and sprinkle them with the 1/8 teaspoon salt and the cayenne. Set up three shallow bowls with the flour, the beaten egg and the crushed crackers. Dredge each oyster in flour, dip it in egg and press it into the crackers to coat well.

3. Fry the oysters. Add 1 tablespoon butter to the bacon fat and heat over medium-high until sizzling. Fry the oysters in a single layer 1 to 1 1/2 minutes per side, until golden and crisp. Transfer them to a plate.

4. Mix the eggs. Whisk the 8 eggs with the milk, 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper until smooth and frothy. Heat the broiler to high.

5. Cook the frittata. Reduce the heat under the skillet to medium-low and melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. Return the oysters to the pan in an even layer, scatter half of the bacon over them and pour in the eggs. Cook without stirring 4 to 5 minutes, lifting the edges with a spatula so the uncooked egg flows underneath, until the bottom and sides are set but the top is still slightly wet.

6. Finish under the broiler. Slide the skillet under the broiler for 1 to 2 minutes, watching closely, until the eggs are puffed, set in the center and lightly golden. If you prefer, cover the skillet with a lid and cook on low 3 to 4 minutes instead.

7. Serve. Top with the remaining bacon, the green onions and parsley. Slide the hangtown fry onto a board or serve straight from the skillet, cut into 4 wedges, with lemon wedges, hot sauce and sourdough toast.

How to know it is done

The hangtown fry is done when the eggs are puffed and fully set in the center, with no liquid egg when you press the middle with a spatula or tilt the pan, and the top is just turning light golden. The eggs should reach 160°F (71°C). The oysters should be golden and crisp outside, with their edges curled, a sign they are cooked through, and the bottom of the frittata should slide easily in the skillet.

Tips for the best result

• Dry the oysters very well; wet oysters make the coating fall off and the frittata watery.
• Crush the crackers finely in a zip-top bag with a rolling pin for an even, crisp crust.
• Do not overcook the oysters in the first fry; they finish cooking in the eggs.
• Keep the heat low once the eggs go in so the bottom does not brown before the center sets.
• Use an ovenproof skillet with a metal handle if you plan to finish under the broiler.

Variations and substitutions

• Classic folded omelet: make 2 smaller omelets, folding the eggs over the oysters and bacon instead of broiling.
• Scrambled style: as many San Francisco diners serve it, gently scramble the eggs with the fried oysters and bacon.
• With vegetables: sauté 1/2 cup diced onion and 1/2 cup diced green bell pepper in the bacon fat before frying the oysters, or add a handful of spinach.
• With cheese: sprinkle 1/2 cup shredded white cheddar or Parmesan over the eggs before broiling.
• Without bacon: fry the oysters in 3 tablespoons butter and use smoked paprika for a smoky note.
• Shrimp instead of oysters: use 8 oz (225 g) peeled medium shrimp, breaded the same way and fried 1 1/2 to 2 minutes per side.

Make ahead

Cook and crumble the bacon up to 2 days ahead and refrigerate it. Crush the crackers and keep them in a zip-top bag, and whisk the egg mixture up to 12 hours ahead and refrigerate it covered. Shucked oysters should be kept on ice in the coldest part of the refrigerator and used within 1 day. Bread and fry the oysters just before cooking so they stay crisp; this dish is best served right away.

Storage and reheating

Hangtown fry is best freshly made. Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container within 2 hours and eat them within 1 day. Reheat wedges in a covered skillet over low heat for 4 to 5 minutes or in a 325°F (165°C) oven for 8 to 10 minutes, just until hot. The microwave works in 30-second bursts, though the oysters will lose their crunch. Freezing is not recommended.